What to see in Riudarenes: Argimon, l’Esparra and the village on foot

Things to see in Riudarenes: a church burnt by Spanish troops in 1640, a flour mill painted bright red, a castle turned into a sanctuary with views from the Montseny to the Gavarres, and a tower everyone calls the “Witches’ Tower”.

Riudarenes is our nearest village: Can Micos is 1.5 km away. It has about 2,500 inhabitants and doesn’t appear in the guidebooks, but it holds more history than you’d think. You can see the centre in a relaxed morning, and Argimon and l’Esparra fill an afternoon. Here’s what’s worth seeing, what you can only see from the outside, and a few tips from people who live next door.

WhereLa Selva county (Girona), between Santa Coloma de Farners and Sils
Time neededA morning for the centre; 2–3 more hours for Argimon and l’Esparra
Don’t missThe walk up to the Argimon sanctuary
Town festivalThird Sunday of September
From Can Micos1.5 km

Sant Martí church and the spark of 1640

The first thing you notice is that the church isn’t in the centre but at one end of the village. There’s a reason: in the mid-18th century, floods from the Santa Coloma stream and other torrents forced people to build further north, away from the water. The church stayed where it was and the village moved away from it.

Sant Martí is first mentioned in 1190, but the building you see today dates from the second half of the 17th century. The previous one was burnt by Spanish troops in May 1640, and that fire was no minor event: the looting of Riudarenes, Santa Coloma de Farners and Amer sparked the peasant revolt that became the Reapers’ War, the one Catalonia’s anthem is about.

Take a look at the granite Baroque doorway: it bears the date 1730 and a figure of Saint Martin cutting his cloak in half to give it to a beggar.

Baroque doorway from 1730 of Sant Martí church in Riudarenes

Foto: Karsten Ratzke, CC0

Plaça del Diumenge and Carrer Major: look up

Walk round the right side of the church to Plaça del Diumenge. The wall of the square has four bricked-up stone openings, including two Gothic windows, one with an ogee arch and one trefoil. They are thought to be remains of 15th-century houses abandoned in the 18th. It’s in poor condition and hardly anyone stops to look, but it’s among the oldest things you can see in the village. Next to it is Ca l’Oller, a traditional manor house with a round-arched doorway.

Ca l'Oller, traditional manor house on Plaça del Diumenge in Riudarenes

Foto: Karsten Ratzke, CC0

Carrer Major is lined with two-storey 18th-century houses, and many still have the owner’s name and religious symbols, such as crosses and chalices, carved on the lintel above the door. It’s the kind of detail you miss if you’re looking at your phone. With children it works well as a game: who can spot the most crosses?

La Farinera, the red building, and the school the miller gave the village

At the end of Travessera Major you reach Plaça de la Vila, home to the town hall and the most photogenic building in the village: La Farinera. It’s a former flour mill from the late 19th century, in eclectic style, with a tower and deep red walls set off by white corners. It was called La Joya de la Selva and is attached to an even older mill bearing an inscription from 1816.

La Farinera in Riudarenes, a former flour mill with a red façade on Plaça de la Vila

Foto: Karsten Ratzke, CC0

Note: La Farinera is private (offices downstairs, homes upstairs), so you can only see it from outside. It’s still worth the photo.

A few steps away, on Plaça de Lluís Ribera, is the old Josep Boada school. The square is named after the owner of La Farinera, who donated the land for the school in 1929. The Noucentista building went up in record time: work began in March 1929 and it opened that September. And for football fans: Gerard Deulofeu was born in Riudarenes.

Argimon: castle, sanctuary and the best views

If you only do one thing in Riudarenes, make it this. On top of the Puig d’Argimon, at around 450 m, stands an 18th-century sanctuary built exactly where the medieval castle used to be. What’s left of the castle is part of a tower and the original Romanesque chapel, probably 10th-century, now partly hidden behind the sanctuary. King John I ordered the castle destroyed in 1367, and today it is a listed national monument.

Argimon castle and sanctuary on the hilltop, a must-see in Riudarenes

Foto: Josep Maria Viñolas Esteva, CC BY-SA 4.0

Bell tower of the Mare de Déu d'Argimon sanctuary, Riudarenes

Foto: Josep Maria Viñolas Esteva, CC BY-SA 4.0

But people go up for the views: from the top you look over the Esparra valley and can see from the Montseny to the Gavarres. At sunset it’s spectacular. We often recommend it to guests with dogs: it’s one of the favourite walks, along with Estany de Sils and the paths that start right at the house.

Getting thereRoad from Riudarenes to l’Esparra, then a dirt track of about 3.5 km
On footCircular routes from Raval de l’Esparra, about 8.5–9.5 km with 340–430 m of ascent
WhenAll year; best early morning or at sunset
FestivalAplec d’Argimon, second Sunday of September
For hikersOne of the FEEC’s “100 Cims” summits
Tip: bring water. There are no facilities at the top, and in summer the climb in the sun feels long.

L’Esparra: the church, the Witches’ Tower and the hackberry tree that’s gone

L’Esparra is a small hamlet in the municipality, about 6 km west of the village, on the way to Argimon. It’s worth a stop. Sant Martí de l’Esparra church is mentioned as early as 1169, although the current building is 18th-century. Nearby, on a hilltop, stands the Esparra tower: a 12th–13th-century fortified house, recorded as the castle of La Roqueta, which locals call the Torre de les Bruixes, the Witches’ Tower. With a name like that, you’ve got a story for the kids on the way.

Sant Martí de l'Esparra church, Riudarenes

Foto: Carlos Pino Andújar, CC BY-SA 3.0

Esparra tower or Witches' Tower, a medieval fortified house in Riudarenes

Foto: Antoni Grifol, CC BY-SA 4.0

For almost two centuries the church square had a monumental hackberry tree (lledoner), planted in 1812 to celebrate the Cádiz Constitution. A storm tore off a huge branch in 2007 and the tree slowly died; today not even the trunk remains. We mention it because it still appears on many lists of places to visit, so you won’t go looking for it.

Tip: in summer, when the water is low, walking up the Esparra stream with your feet in the water is a simple plan that children love.

Montcorb chapel and its legend

On the road from Hostalric to les Mallorquines there’s a small chapel with a big legend. The Mare de Déu de Montcorb sanctuary was built in 1125 and rebuilt in 1423, when the Manresa family donated the statue of the Virgin; according to legend, they had taken it from the Moors. In 1484 Pope Sixtus IV granted indulgences to pilgrims who came here. It’s a short stop, the kind you make on the way somewhere else.

Mare de Déu de Montcorb chapel on the road from Hostalric to les Mallorquines

Foto: Josep Maria Viñolas Esteva, CC BY-SA 4.0

Walking and cycling routes from Riudarenes

The Camí dels Segadors is the easiest route for getting to know the La Selva plain. It commemorates that revolt of 1640 and links Santa Coloma de Farners with Vidreres via Riudarenes and Sils, so you can just do one stretch. The Sils section takes you to the Estany.

RouteDistanceAscentDifficulty
Camí dels Segadors (Santa Coloma – Vidreres)17 km, one way+60 mEasy, blue and white waymarks
Argimon from Raval de l’Esparra8.5–9.5 km, loop+340 to +430 mModerate

If mountain biking is your thing, we describe eleven routes in our guide to mountain bike routes in La Selva, and nearby Farners Castle has its own article. For more trails, see our page on hiking in Girona.

Festivals worth noting

FestivalWhen
Sant PonçSunday closest to 11 May
Roser de l’EsparraFirst Sunday of June
Aplec d’ArgimonSecond Sunday of September
Town festival (Festa Major)Third Sunday of September
Sant Martí11 November

Where to eat

In the municipality, our recommendation is Hostal Mallorquines, in les Mallorquines. For more options nearby, we also like Hostal de la Granota in Sils and Can Valls in Brunyola. And to see what else there is around here, carry on with our guide on what to see in La Selva.

Where to shop: meat, bread and cakes

Our tip for the barbecue: the village butcher’s is inside the supermarket (now a Spar), but it’s a family-owned butcher’s. Don’t be put off by it being in a general supermarket: it’s where we’d buy.

Since the village bakery closed, we recommend Can Companyó in Sils for bread, which isn’t far. And for cakes, our pick is Pastisseria Serra Tornes.

And if you need anything else, just ask us during your stay: we’ll tell you where to go and we’re always happy to help.

Can Micos: your house 1.5 km from Riudarenes

Can Micos is an 18th-century Catalan farmhouse rented in its entirety to groups of 16 to 25 people, just outside Riudarenes. From here, Girona is 24 km away, the Costa Brava 24 km and Sils train station 5 km. And if you’d rather not cook, we offer optional catering.

We’re Carmen and Dani and we’ve been welcoming groups for more than 26 years; we’ll help you plan your stay.

Garden and pool at Can Micos, a group holiday house in Riudarenes
Living and dining room at Can Micos for groups of up to 25
  • 9 bedrooms: 8 with private bathroom
  • Dining room for up to 30 people
  • Living room of 60 m² with fireplace
  • Fenced garden of 4,000 m²
  • Pool 9×4 m (all year)
  • Covered barbecue area of 115 m²

Rated 4.8 out of 5 on Google, with more than 220 reviews from groups who have stayed.

Frequently asked questions

What can you see in Riudarenes in one day?

In the morning, the centre: Sant Martí church, Plaça del Diumenge, Carrer Major and La Farinera. In the afternoon, head up to Argimon via l’Esparra and its tower.

How do you get to the Argimon sanctuary?

Take the road from Riudarenes to l’Esparra and then a dirt track of about 3.5 km. There are also circular walking routes from Raval de l’Esparra of about 8.5 to 9.5 km.

Can you visit inside La Farinera?

No. It’s a private building with offices and homes. You can see it from Plaça de la Vila.

When is the Riudarenes town festival?

On the third Sunday of September. A week earlier, on the second Sunday, the Aplec d’Argimon takes place.

Where can a group stay near Riudarenes?

Can Micos is 1.5 km from the village: an 18th-century farmhouse rented in its entirety to groups of 16 to 25 people, with a pool, a 4,000 m² garden and a covered barbecue area.

Coming to discover Riudarenes?

Tell us your dates and group size and we’ll help you plan the weekend: rooms, meals and things to do for the whole group.

Check availabilityMessage us on WhatsApp